Saturday, January 18, 2014
Glossary of watch terms
* calibre refers to the movement. The Lépine (or open-face) calibre dispenses with the fusee and to have replaced the top plate and pillars with bridges. This made room for the balance inside rather than on top of the mechanism, resulting in a much thinner movement. Also, the Lépine seconds hand is in line with the winding-stem as opposed to the Hunter calibre in which the seconds hand is on an axis from 3 to 9 o'clock, at right angle to the winding stem.
* "ébauche" refers to an incomplete or unassembled watch movement and its associated components.
* "Manufacture" is a company who produces at least one movement in house. Examples of "manufacture" watch companies producing one or more movements in house include Audemars Piguet, Glashutte, Chopard, Girard-Perregaux , Roger Dubuis , Piaget , A. Lange & Sohne, Jaeger Le-Coultre, Minerva, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Vacheron & Constantin, and Zenith.
* Ligne is an old unit of measurement in watchmaking. One lingne equals 2.2558mm, rounded up to 2.26mm. A foot (') measured 12 inches ('') of 12 lignes (''') each.
UNITAS 6497/6498
UNITAS
Unitas was established in 1898 as Manufacture Auguste Reymond in the small town of Tramelan in the center of the Jura Mountain region of Switzerland. The 6497 and 6498 calibers became regarded as among the best pocketwatch movements ever designed for their ruggedness and accuracy.
When Ebauches S.A. absorbed Unitas, Valjoux and other manufacturers within ETA S.A, many of the original ebauche names and calibre numbers were retained. That is why today, the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 calibers and the Valljoux 7750 and 7751 calibers manufactured by ETA still carry the name and caliber number of the original ebauche manufacturer.
In the early 1930s, the Incabloc® movement shock absorber was developed, and it revolutionized movement durability and maintaining accuracy. It was adopted by virtually all Swiss movement manufacturers. It has been refined over the decades since and is the premier method of protecting Swiss watches from severe shock. UNITAS incorporated the Incabloc® system in their movements. Among them is the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 pocketwatch movements designed in the 1950s. The 6497 and 6498 calibers became regarded as among the best pocketwatch movements ever designed for their ruggedness and accuracy.
The UNITAS 6497 is experiencing a resurgence today as a movement for wristwatches. At a whopping 16.5 ligne, it requires a massive case--just the thing for those wanting a manly watch. Both the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 movements remain the premier movements for mechanical pocket watches. The obvious difference between 6497 and 6498 is the seconds hand sub dial is at 8 o'clock for the 6497 and at 6 o'clock for the 6498.
6497/6498 specs:
Manual hand-wound, 16.5 ligne, 17 jewels, Swiss lever escapement,
Incabloc movement shock absorber,
Accuracy of -10/+15 seconds/day,
Anti-magnetic,
21,600 vibrations/hr (3 Hz),
36 hrs power reserve
small second
Standard crown
Watches using the Unitas movements include Glycine KMU 48, Glycine F-104, Epos Passion 3403 Open Heart.
Unitas was established in 1898 as Manufacture Auguste Reymond in the small town of Tramelan in the center of the Jura Mountain region of Switzerland. The 6497 and 6498 calibers became regarded as among the best pocketwatch movements ever designed for their ruggedness and accuracy.
When Ebauches S.A. absorbed Unitas, Valjoux and other manufacturers within ETA S.A, many of the original ebauche names and calibre numbers were retained. That is why today, the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 calibers and the Valljoux 7750 and 7751 calibers manufactured by ETA still carry the name and caliber number of the original ebauche manufacturer.
In the early 1930s, the Incabloc® movement shock absorber was developed, and it revolutionized movement durability and maintaining accuracy. It was adopted by virtually all Swiss movement manufacturers. It has been refined over the decades since and is the premier method of protecting Swiss watches from severe shock. UNITAS incorporated the Incabloc® system in their movements. Among them is the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 pocketwatch movements designed in the 1950s. The 6497 and 6498 calibers became regarded as among the best pocketwatch movements ever designed for their ruggedness and accuracy.
The UNITAS 6497 is experiencing a resurgence today as a movement for wristwatches. At a whopping 16.5 ligne, it requires a massive case--just the thing for those wanting a manly watch. Both the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 movements remain the premier movements for mechanical pocket watches. The obvious difference between 6497 and 6498 is the seconds hand sub dial is at 8 o'clock for the 6497 and at 6 o'clock for the 6498.
6497/6498 specs:
Manual hand-wound, 16.5 ligne, 17 jewels, Swiss lever escapement,
Incabloc movement shock absorber,
Accuracy of -10/+15 seconds/day,
Anti-magnetic,
21,600 vibrations/hr (3 Hz),
36 hrs power reserve
small second
Standard crown
Watches using the Unitas movements include Glycine KMU 48, Glycine F-104, Epos Passion 3403 Open Heart.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos GMT Auto
Reference: PT6068-SS002-120
40mm case
Automatic movement (21 jewels decorated ETA 2893-2)
Sapphire crystal
24-hours second time zone (GMT),
Sweep center seconds,
Date window, minutes, hours, luminous
hands,
Sapphire crystal,
Transparent case back
Water resistant up to 50 meters,
42 hours power reserve
ETA 2893-2
(Image credit: MB1K on Flickr)
The 2893 is the GMT version of the ETA 2892. It adds a 24-hour hand that can be used to track a second timezone. GMT complications, one of my favorites, were introduced by Rolex with the GMT Master for Pan-Am pilots flying international routes, where the 24-hour hand would be set to GMT (later renamed UTC) time.
The best GMT movements allow you to to set the normal hour & minute hand without changing the GMT time. That way, when you change timezones, the local time is displayed normally (important when you're jetlagged!) and the 24-hour hand indicates home time or GMT time as preferred. Really nice movements (e.g. the Rolex, and the modified 2893 in the Omega GMT) set the time in one-hour jumps, making it trivial.
Doesn't work for fractional GMT offsets.
Anyway, the 2893 is not like this - setting the normal time moves the 24-hour hand. Which means that you either have to set both, or use the 24-hour hand for local time, as it can be set independently.
Here's ETA's instruction sheet:
Specs
- Debut 1992
- Size 11.5 ligne, 4.2mm thick
- 21 jewels, Shock protection varies by grade
- 51 degree lift angle
- Automatic, unidirectional winding
- Rate: 28,800 vph
- Power reserve: 42 hours
- hacking
- Handwinding
- Hour, minute, central seconds, Quickset date, 24-hour hand
- Accuracy, decoration and Adjustments vary by ETA grades
- Hours, minutes, sweep seconds.
- Self-winding mechanism with ball bearing.
- Date indicator, corrector.
- Stop second device.
- Regulator system ETACHRON and regulator corrector.
- 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz.
- 24 hour hand or second time zone.
- 21 Jewels.
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Produced by ETA
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STEINHART "GMT-OCEAN 1 BLACK RED"
STEINHART "GMT-OCEAN 1 BLACK RED"
Diver Watch - Art.Nr. T0202
420 EUR 19% VAT incl.
353 EUR without 19% VAT
353 EUR without 19% VAT
Swiss Made - 2 years warranty
The sporty exclusiveness of the „GMT-OCEAN 1 BLACK RED" makes it stand out from other diver watches. Its solid design guarantees highest resiliance as well as an outstanding quality. Within the large genre of sports diver watches the„GMT-OCEAN 1 BLACK RED" is one of the few examples in its price range which demonstrates such an excellent cost-performance ratio.Technical Details
Sold out
Type: GMT-OCEAN 1 BLACK RED
Item no.: T0202
Movement
ETA 2893-2 Swiss Made, automatic, hacking seconds
Jewels: 21 jewels
Functions
hour and minute central second hand
Date on the “3”
hour and minute with Super Luminova C1
adjustable second time zone using swivel and watch hand
Case: stainless steel
Back: Stainless steel screwed, engraved
Diameter: 42 mm, without crown
Weight: 190 g
Dial: black
Crystal: Sapphire incl. date magnifier
Bezel: flutedstainless steel, black / red
Indices: Super Luminova C1
WaterRes: 300 metres/990 feet 30 ATM acc. to DIN
Strap: stainless steel 22 mm, screwed
Buckle: stainless steel, saftey clasp
Black
Blue Red
source: http://www.steinhartwatches.de/en/GMT-OCEAN-1-BLACK-RED,10.html
The watch that Steinhart pays homage to...
Thursday, January 16, 2014
The Affordable Automatic Pilot Watches
Although the style has been around since the 40′s the past few years have seen a growth in the popularity in the Beobachtungs-Uhren (Nav. B-Uhr or Nav. B) watches. These were worn during WWII by pilots and had some specific guidelines for their design. They had to be large (normally 55mm) as as to be easy to read, and contain luminous paint so as to be legible at night. A large crown was required so as to be operated with gloves and a movement with a hacking seconds hand.
The watches from the 1940′s will run you well into the thousands of dollars, well above the budget of many a watchnerd. And the 55mm size makes them prohibitive for most wrist sizes. Fortunately a number of brands have come to our aide and provided a range of options for the watch enthusiast to consider when shopping for a watch in this iconic design.
Starting on the low end, we have the Parnis brand, straight out of China. Some people might be hesitant about the brand given its origins, however reviewing many of the forums will find a number of satisfied customers. These watches are usually 47mm, which is still big, but not the insane 55mm of the originals. Prices will run between $75 – $150 depending on your source of choice. The watches typically are built well, although your mileage may vary. For the price point, it is an affordable way to get started with this style of watch.
Popular around these parts are the Martac pilots watches, in both a mid-size and larger size. The watch contains a different take on the Nav. B style while still retaining many of the iconic features. The onion style crown is located at 4 o’clock rather than 3 and the running seconds at 6 o’clock. You can see more on themid-size and the large here on worn&wound.
Ticino has been offering Nav B. style watches for some time and in 2012 they introduced a chronograph version of the popular watch. The Pilot Chronograph offers a 30-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock with running seconds at 9. A 24 hour hand is at 6 o’clock and all are powered by the Seagull TY2903 hand wind movement. The Ticino offers a very affordable option for a mechanical chronograph and is a great option in the Nav B. style.
Laco is one of the few brands that originally produced B-Uhr watches for the German Luftwaffe. They still make a number of watches in the same styles. They produce watches that range in movements and prices to fit anyone budget and taste. There are quartz options, automatic and hand-wind along with a variety of dial options, as well as chronograph model. Sizes range from 36mm and up, again options to fit any wrist. If you want a B-Uhr from a brand with direct roots to the style, Laco is the way to go.
Steinhart makes available a variety of styles of the B-Uhr watches all with ETA movements and their great customer service behind them. Watches are available in 44mm or 47mm, two dial types, automatic or hand-wind, and chronograph models. Over the years they have also released some limited editions in the B-Uhr style. The Steinhart Nav B-Uhr models are praised on the forums for their excellent build quality classic good looks, and we quite liked the Nav B Uhr II we reviewed some months ago. The only problem is choosing which model to start with.
Archimede
$600 – $1,500 USD
36mm – 45mm
ETA 2824-2, ETA 2824, ETA 6498, ETA 7750
Source: Archimede Watches
One of the standard recommendations when it comes to B-Uhr watches is the Archimede line. The German brand uses all Swiss movements in their watches, which cover all the bases from 36mm to 45mm, including a chronograph model. The Archimede watches are a clear winner regardless of which size or movement you choose.
Stowa is the second brand on the list that originally produced this style of watches during WWII. They make their current line-up in a variety of dial styles and color with a number of strap and bracelet options. At the top of a line-up is a Valjoux 7753 41mm chronograph in the Nav. B style that is certain to be the object of lust for many watch nerds.
Whether you have $75 or $750 you now have some options for a Nav B-Uhr style watch. The style is in the functional and classic category and can be worn with nearly any attire. A no-nonsense design that is a winner, regardless of which brand you choose.
by James Enloe
source: http://wornandwound.com/2012/11/26/the-affordable-observers-watch/
Victorinox Swiss Army Men’s Convoy Chronograph Watch
Victorinox Swiss Army Men’s Convoy Chronograph Watch
model 241159
The Victorinox Swiss Army Men’s Convoy Chronograph Watch model 241159 is a bold timepiece with specific standout style that separates it from all other wristwatches. It’s a sporty product, precise and functional and made in accordance with the Victorinox’s philosophy of producing watches that possess ingenious design.
Exquisitely crafted, this Victorinox Swiss Army watch for men features a round case. This case is constructed from stainless steel and it is 13 millimeters thick. It has diameter of 42 millimeters (46 millimeters with crown). This daring product from Victorinox’s Convoy line of products also has a fixed bezel, made of polished stainless steel.
The Victorinox Swiss Army Convoy Chrono has a distinguishable and appealing deep red analog dial with three chronograph sub dials. Two of them (60 seconds and 1/10th of a second displays) are in the same color as the dial and the 30-minutes sub dial display is silver. It is a harmonious combination of colors that give this timepiece its distinctive sassy style.
The dial also features luminous silver hour markers and hands, “cross and shield” logo at 12 o’clock and a date display situated at four o’clock. The striking red dial is completed with tachymeter scale. Such alluring face is protected with mineral crystal with anti reflective treatment.
This cheeky watch for gents from Convoy series has a Swiss quartz movement, which ensures accuracy and precision that is associated with Victorinox Swiss Army. It also features durable black rubber strap that fastens with buckle. The band is of standard length for men’s models, 24 millimeters wide near case and 20 millimeters in the vicinity of buckle.
The Victorinox Swiss Army Convoy Chronograph Watch is undoubtedly a timepiece of extraordinary design and resilient construction, suitable for many occasions. It is perfect equipment for various activities and adventures, whether you are going around the corner or around the globe. It can also be used for swimming or snorkeling, since it has a water resistance of 100 meters. All these features are available for $425.
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Case Size | 42 mm |
| Case Thickness | 13 mm |
| Crystal | Mineral |
| Bracelet/Strap | Black rubber strap |
| Dial | Black |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Shock-Proofing | No |
| Bezel | Fixed |
| Calendar | Yes |
| Chronograph | Yes |
| Moon Phase Indicator | No |
| Dual Time/World Time | No |
| Alarm | No |
| Display | Analog |
| Water-Resistance | 100 meters (330 feet) |
| Altimeter-Depth Meter | No |
| Power Reserve | |
| Assembly | Swiss |
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